How to Hang Wallpaper Yourself

Nov 11, 2023

By Lexi Dwyer

Knowing how to hang wallpaper might sound like a job best left to the pros, but with some patience and attention to detail, you can likely tackle this DIY project. “Wallpaper is incredibly transformative—it’s having a moment and the styles have flourished in so many amazing directions,” says interior designer Jennifer Morris, founder and principal at JMorris Design in New York City. It’s also an easy way to refresh your space. “Unlike a big renovation that might take months, wallpaper is clean and relatively fast, and it can transform the look of a room for just a few hundred dollars,” says wallpaper installer Katie Hunt, founder of Katie’s Wallpaper in Toronto.

If you’re new to hanging wallpaper, she suggests starting with a small spot, like a windowless accent wall in a foyer or bedroom, the back wall of a closet, or the back of a bookshelf. Ready to start researching fresh new wallpaper designs? Here’s what to know before you dive in.

Estimated project time: 4 to 8 hours, depending on wall size

Skill level: Medium

Cost: $1 to $5 per square foot for wallpaper, plus tools and materials

List of tools and materials:

The most important thing is having a solid plan ahead of time. “Wallpaper installation is all about preparation, knowledge, and execution—just like anything in life,” Hunt says. The following instructions are for non-woven (also called “paste the wall”) wallpaper, which Hunt says is the most beginner-friendly type of wallpaper. “Non-woven wallpaper is the easiest to install, doesn’t expand or contract and looks virtually seamless,” says Hunt.

Other types of wallpaper are peel-and-stick, which tends to be less durable but has the benefit of easy removal (which can be helpful if you rent your home); woven wallpaper (also known as “paste the paper”), which must be first soaked in adhesive; and natural fiber grasscloth wallpapers, like jute and sisal, which can be trickier to install as their surfaces can’t be wiped down.

Before you put in the work installing wallpaper, you’ll want to be sure it’s going to adhere well. Depending on the condition of your surface, this may involve painting over a dark color that could show through the wallpaper, sanding down any lumps of old paint, and filling nail holes with spackle.

If you paint, you should give the fresh coat three to four weeks to fully set. Before hanging wallpaper, some people also choose to add a coat of wallpaper primer (also called sizing), which is an acrylic-based liquid that helps make your paper stick more easily and also makes the removal process go more smoothly. (Depending on the manufacturer’s instructions, wallpaper primer should only take a day or two to dry.)

You’ll also want to remove all light switch and outlet faceplates. Cover the sockets with painter's tape so glue doesn’t seep in. Hunt offers a key safety tip. “You should always turn off the power before you install wallpaper, since you’ll need to cut carefully around these spots with a metal blade,” she says.

Use a pencil and a straight edge or spirit level to make a vertical straight line (also known as a plumb line) down your wall (to the baseboard) to delineate where the first panel will go. If your design does not have a clear focal point that you would want to center on the wall, start on the left side and move toward the right. It helps to make several plumb lines across the wall, so you can ensure your wallpaper stays consistently straight.

Measure the wall and add three inches to both top and bottom to allow for trimming. You’ll paste the paper on at this size and then trim the excess.

Use a roller or brush to apply an even coat of paste to the wall, being careful to add the adhesive just beyond where the paper’s edge will land. Hang the first strip of wallpaper and remove air bubbles with the smoothing tool, working from the center out to the edge of the paper. Move to the next panel: When you apply paste for the next panel, let it overlap slightly onto the edge of the panel that’s already on the wall (this will help soften the seams so the two strips blend together). Place the wallpaper over the light switch and electrical outlet sockets, being careful not to apply any paste near them; you’ll come back to them later.

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As you add panels, align the edges and use a wallpaper brush to tap them gently where the seams meet to help hide the border (you can also use a seam roller to do this). As you work, use a damp sponge or microfiber cloth dipped in warm water to remove any excess paste and flatten out air bubbles.

With the taping knife as a guide, use the breakaway knife to trim the excess paper from the top and bottom; wait until the paste dries since it will be stiffer and easier to cut. As you trim, change the knife blades frequently to avoid jagged edges.

Always work slowly and carefully in these areas so you don’t rip the paper. Use the breakaway knife to gently make two vertical cuts on either side of the plug (or light switch). Then use scissors to make a single horizontal cut in the middle of the plug area (put your finger underneath to pull the paper away and make it easier to cut). You will be left with a top and bottom flap; use the scissors to cut off each flap. Snip around the bottom of the plug where the screw goes in, then reattach the outlet cover.

If your wallpaper does not have a main focal point, start at the left corner of the wall and move toward the right. If you do have a central design element, you’ll want to center that in the middle of the wall and move outwards. “It can be helpful to cut and lay out the panels on the floor in advance so you can get a sense for the design and ensure you haven’t cut off any critical elements from the top or bottom,” Hunt says.

You only need to soak your wallpaper in paste if you’re using a “paste the paper” wall covering (also called woven wallpaper), which Hunt doesn’t recommend for novice DIY installers. This requires letting the wallpaper “book,” usually for two to five minutes (depending on the manufacturer’s instructions) so it can absorb the paste and expand.

The term pattern match simply refers to where the patterns line up at the seams of the wallpaper strips. Wallpaper with a random match is the easiest to install because the strips will always line up when placed together. Other types, such as drop match and straight match, will require you to carefully cut strips to align the patterns and you’ll want to order extra paper to account for this. The Wallcoverings Association has a helpful guide explaining the different types of pattern matches.

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A design repeat (also called a pattern repeat), which is expressed in inches, refers to the vertical distance on a wallpaper pattern until it repeats again. Some repeats might be as small as two inches, while others can be as much as two feet. Since you’ll need to line up the patterns exactly, you may end up needing to cut off excess paper from the top. “Really pay attention to the material, the width, and the repeat of the wallpaper – all of those will factor into the installation and the way it comes out,” says Morris.

Here’s how to avoid the most common errors when planning for wallpaper installation.

Lots of factors—like design repeat but also your own errors—may leave you needing more paper than you originally planned. Or you may decide to make a change to the wall in the future, like adding a set of wall sconces, that would require some tweaks. “Don’t be short on wallpaper—having at least one extra roll is important. If you calculate exactly, and it is your first time, and you mess up a panel, you have extra, which will make you feel more confident during the process, with less pressure,” says Hunt. Morris also says that buying extra in bulk will ensure that the colors stay consistent. “From dye lot to dye lot the colors can vary, it’s just like fabric,” she says.

If you have a complicated pattern, Hunt emphasizes that it’s important to lay out your panels in the proper order before you start installing wallpaper. “Make sure not to cut off key elements from the top and bottom, like birds or other details,” she says. Some people find it helpful to lightly mark the back of each strip with a pencil with a number and also indicate which end should be at the top.

Think about your lifestyle as you consider which wallpaper to buy. “If you have kids running around, you might not want a really delicate paper, like a light-color natural that will stain easily, or a silk that can get scratched, especially in a high-traffic place like a stairwell,” says Morris.